This last weekend I went to the bullfights, a first time for me. I was expecting the bullfight to be a brutal spectacle that would horrify me and I was pretty sure I would leave after the first show. Why did I go, you ask? Because I live in Mexico and have been asked by every person I know that moves here if I have ever seen a bullfight, as well as all of my friends that come down to visit. I must admit that I had a cultural bias against the bullfights, because I was raised with the idea that animals have some sort of feelings.

I showed up at the bullring about the time the “Corrida” was supposed to start, there was plenty of seating but lots of people still showing up. The tickets were $225 pesos per person, I was a little surprised because I can imagine that this price is a little prohibitive to some of the local population.
A band with about five players was seated at the back of the ring near the exit and the crowd started shouting for them to play something soon after I found my seat. The band seemed rather hesitant to start but soon was belting out familiar traditional songs and the party started going.
I was amazed at the way the crowd seemed to direct the goings on of the event, after a few minutes of sitting a few of the rowdier spectators started shouting for the lights to be turned on. After a while, more and more people were shouting, some standing up and waving there hands, even screaming obscenities at an unseen (at least to me) entity, who eventually acquiesced to the requests.
The crowd started to get more and more rowdy, the band played rowdy music, venders offered cokes and beers and deep fried hotdogs and I felt right at home in the middle of this party. I kept getting the sensation of “What is going to happen next?” Finally, after about 15 minutes, the band started playing the typical bullfight song (I believe it is called “La Malageña” and the crowd quieted down for the show to start.

The bullfight starts with a parade of the bullfighters and support staff, all dressed in very bright clothing and very decorated. They walk around in funny hats and salute the crowd, going to each part of the ring to get approval from all of the crowd. One of the matadores appeared to be in his mid-sixties and was dressed in a black, grey, and silver suit with lots of piping and sequins, the other was wearing a hot pink suit with gold piping. I am not sure if this is traditional but it certainly made an impression on me. The crowd roared as the matadors walked around the ring and waved, receiving hats and scarves from the crowd, at one point even a pair of sunglasses, all of which was used quickly by the matador and then thrown back to its owner.
Another interesting player in the show was the “Picador” who is mounted on top of a horse that is wearing a thick blanket of armor and is completely blindfolded, he wears steel boots and carries a spear, I didn’t put it all together at the time but his role gets interesting later. There was also another guy wearing a red suit and a funny had, but I never caught what he was called, his role will be explained later as well.
After much ceremony everyone retreats back into the inner section of the ring and waits, this gives an opportunity for the crowd to get a little bit of excitement worked up as well as a window for the beer venders to wander around and supply the crowd with re-enforcements. The anticipation builds to a head and the crowd starts shouting for a bull, about that time I started to hear a loud crashing noises from the side of the ring opposite my seat.
Finally, a door near the crashing opened, after about thirty seconds an angry bovine emerged from the dark hallway behind the door and started across the ring for one of the men who was waving a large pink cape at the bull. At the last minute the man with the cape ducks behind a barrier that is especially for this purpose and the bull grazes the barrier but keeps going to another part of the ring to attack yet another one of the men with capes. This goes on for a little while, I am not sure what it accomplished other than to give the crowd the feeling that the bull is really pissed off.
After a little bit more of the bull running around showing that he would attack anything that moved the Matador enters the ring and waves the cape at the bull for a little while. This pisses the bull off more, inciting him to attack the matador and everything else in sight. The bull apparently needed more excitement, because next, the picador on the horse enters the ring and the matador leads the bull over near him. Now, I am thinking, “Spear, bull, ok, I know whats coming”, but I really had no idea about the reality. See, its not as if the bull stands still and lets the Picador come to him to stick the spear in. I think he figures that the best defense is a good offense, so he attacks the horse brutally, hence the steel boots and padded armor.
The horse seemed not to notice that a thousand pound bull was charging into his side, I guess because of the blindfold (I know people like this, actually), so he did not move or run or really even flinch. I wonder about the training they used to get no reaction out of the horse in such circumstances.

Here is where the bullfight got a little more bloody, while the bull was attacking the horse, the man on top of the horse was ramming the spear into the hump behind the bull’s neck, opening up a large wound. Not once during this does the bull stop and evaluate the situation, he just keeps pounding away at the horse until the crowd shouts enough for the horse to be retired from the ring.
Next, another crazy man who we don’t recognize, wearing a red and white suit sprints into the ring with pointy sticks with lots of flare, jamming them into the already frustrated bull. These sticks, upon further viewing, have metal spike and a barb on the end, but the spike doesn’t seem to be long enough to do much other than annoy the bull, but the barb keeps it from falling out, therefore the bull exits the encounter with these sticks hanging out of his back.
After a little bit more of the bull running around the ring attacking things, the matador comes in with a sword and his cape and toys with the bull a little bit more. The bull follows the cape around charging it and barely missing the matador, it looked challenging getting the bull to do exactly what he wanted it to like that. I knew what was coming now, the bull looked like he was getting a little bit tired, though he was not losing any of his resolve in terms of needing to attack things.

The matador went to the side of the ring after a little while and asked for a different sword, I wasn’t sure what this was about but it seemed important. Right away, he started holding the new sword up with the business end towards the bull. He seemed to be aiming, after a little while he lunged at the bull with the sword. The bull lunged back at the matador and the sword glanced off of the back off the bull. Twice more the matador aimed and lunged, twice more the bull attacked back and fended off the sword.
By this time the crowd started shouting insults at the matador, making jokes about his age and his inability to distinguish the bull from the surrounding area. He seemed to take the insults rather well, on the fourth try he managed to land the sword squarely in the back of the bull. It didn’t take but five seconds for the bull to fall to the ground, dead. Soon afterward the man in the red and black suit came to make sure that the bull was dead, driving a blade into the base of his skull.
While the bull lies there the matador walks around the ring and people cheer and throw things for him to touch and throw back. I found it a little odd that somebody threw a rag to him and he picked it up, wiped his brow with it and then threw it back. Maybe it’s good luck.
After the matador pranced around for a while a pickup truck drove into the ring and hooked the bull up by its back legs, dragging it out of the ring. I had heard that the bull would be pulled from the ring by donkeys, which I thought much more appropriate for the event than a Chevy. What do I know?
The other three fights were more or less the same, nothing really to talk about. The point I would like to point out is that at no point during the fights did I feel disgusted or horrified by the event and the bull did not seem to be in any pain. I actually felt worse for the calves that were tortured during the “Midget Bullfights” than I did for the real bulls.
My favorite parts of the bullfight were actually when something went wrong and the bull got his chance to get some vengeance for what was happening to him. Once during the second fight the bull managed to catch one of his tormenters and drag him across the floor for a little while, I didn’t manage to get it on film unfortunately. The other time the bull got points was when he attacked a horse and managed to get the Picador off of the horse’s back and onto his. This caused a little bit of chaos and was pretty exciting; I managed to get video of this.
Another thing that really stood out was how the second matador was very showy, a little overkill in any other event really. I think this might be a normal occurrence in bullfighting, I remember reading “Ferdinand the Bull” when I was a kid and it talked about the matadors and their egos.
Overall, I cannot say whether or not I would go to another bullfight, it was definitely an experience that I am glad that I had. I can now say that I have seen a bullfight and my experience was not horrible, but I know that the event is really gory and very vivid.
Real Life In Paradise is moving. Please click here to be redirected to the new address.